“The garnet is a red gem, but not like the ruby; its red is much more like that of a flame …  It forms far in the east … If correctly cut and polished, it will reveal all its beauty and perfection.” – Aristotle, ca. 322 B.C.

Bohemian garnets are highly sought after by collectors of vintage and antique jewelry, yet many people remain unaware of these exquisite pieces of jewelry history. Belonging to the pyrope species of garnet, Bohemian garnets are prized for their vibrant red hue and inner glow, which is a result of their exceptional refractive properties.

The appreciation for these garnets dates back to the Bronze Age, when people were the first to recognize and value their remarkable color. Numerous ancient Greek philosophers and authors, such as Pliny the Elder, Aristotle, and Theophrastus of Eresos, made mention of garnets in their works. In fact, the name “pyrope” is derived from the Greek words “pyr,” meaning “fire,” and “ops,” meaning “eye,” accurately describing the fiery red color and captivating luminosity displayed by these gemstones.

Rough pyrope garnet

Significant deposits of garnets were discovered in the 16th century in Meronitz, situated in the hills of Bohemia within the Czech Republic. These garnets were found in gravel derived from the decomposition of serpentine rock and derive their unique color from traces of chromium and manganese. While they have been mined for only the past 600 years, these garnets have been collected and crafted into jewelry for several millennia.

Bohemian garnet mine

Bohemian garnet jewelry is renowned for its rose-cut gemstones, which are pavé set and bear resemblance to pomegranate seeds. Pyropes possess exceptional clarity and purity, which greatly appealed to Frankish King Childeric I (436-482 AD). His admiration for these garnets was so profound that during the excavation of his tomb in Tournai in 1653, an impressive amount of garnet jewelry, including buckles, large brooches, and inlaid bug pins, was discovered.

Throughout history, each era has esteemed and further refined the art of garnet setting. During the Renaissance, Venetian stone cutters traveled to Prague and taught local artisans improved techniques for cutting and setting gems, enabling garnets to embellish jewelry and objets d’art. King Rudolph II, a member of the illustrious Habsburg family, was another prominent garnet enthusiast who adorned his crown with these gems, which remains in use today as the Imperial Crown of Austria.

The Imperial Crown of Austria

Bohemian garnets experienced a surge in popularity during the 19th century when they adorned Russian dresses at the Vienna Congress following the fall of Napoleon in 1815. They remained highly favored throughout the Victorian era until the onset of the Great Depression. During her time as First Lady, even Michelle Obama acquired a piece for her collection while traveling. This captivating jewelry is currently experiencing a resurgence in popularity and is a must-have when visiting the Czech Republic.

All of the pieces below are for sale at The Gemmary!