“A leisurely time when women wore picture hats and did not vote, when the rich were not ashamed to live conspicuously, and the sun really never set on the British flag.”

-Samuel Hynes

British King Edward VII, circa 1900s.

After the death of Queen Victoria in 1901, 60-year-old Edward VII finally assumed the British throne. A notorious playboy and gambler who had been excluded from the political arena during his mother’s long reign, Edward VII was a socialite who enjoyed high-society soirees and living in luxury. Famously more light-hearted than his mother, Edward’s lifestyle heavily influenced British culture, flowing into the fashion and jewelry of the era.

Genevive Lantelme (1882-1911)

Edward’s relatively short reign was a period of frivolity and celebration for the upper classes. The garden parties and social events of the day called for a shift from Victorian fashion. While the Victorian era had seen a post-industrialization boom in machine-made jewelry, the Edwardian era brought handcrafted adornments back into style. Women began to put away heavy, voluminous skirts and high, proper necklines in favor of lightweight dresses made from soft, pastel fabrics. Heavy, bulky designs were replaced by ethereal, gossamer pieces. Diamonds and pearls were set into thin strands of platinum in motifs of bows, garlands, lace, and florals, creating an airy look.

These styles were made possible largely by the invention of the oxyacetylene torch, which could reach the temperatures necessary to work with platinum. Cartier, already an established brand, became a household name after becoming the official jewelry supplier to King Edward and pioneered the use of platinum in jewelry-making. Lightweight yet exceedingly strong, it proved an ideal material for delicate designs. A new decorative technique known as milgrain, which uses tiny balls and ridges of platinum to soften the edges of pieces, became incredibly popular.

Actress Lily Elsie

The “white on white” trend added to the soft, feminine look of Edwardian jewelry. After DeBeers Consolidated Mines was founded in 1888, diamonds were abundant and relatively affordable, and many Edwardian pieces use multiple stone cuts. High-quality pearls became the status symbol of the day, and many women favored waist-length pearl strands. The dog-collar style of necklace was another hallmark of the age, coordinating with the dropping necklines of dresses.

Aida Overton Walker

Many women wore ornate or stacked rings, with less emphasis on bracelets than in Victorian times. Tiaras were a must-have for formal social engagements, as platinum allowed designers to create elaborate but lightweight crowns. The bandeau style of a tiara –  a band of jewels across the forehead tied in the back with ribbon – gained traction. Hanging earrings moved and swayed with dresses. Throughout, many of these pieces ran with the themes of garland, wreath and lace motifs, white on white, and milgrain.

Minnie Brown

King Edward died in 1910, but it was the start of World War 2 that more rapidly shifted fashions and priorities. Edward’s era of luxury and frivolity ended overnight as the war efforts began, and platinum and other precious metals used in the manufacturing of weapons were no longer available for jewelry-making. However, Edwardian styles are still fashionable today, and platinum remains a beloved metal for the craft. Edwardian jewelry’s light, feminine feel is the perfect finish to a wedding look or formal gown and exudes beauty and romance.