Costume jewelry, also known as fashion jewelry, refers to jewelry created using non-precious materials. Before the advent of costume jewelry, fine jewelry was only accessible to the wealthiest classes and was as much an investment as a personal adornment. After the concept of fashion jewelry debuted in the Western world in the 1700s, ever-increasing demand and technological advancement transformed it into the booming industry we see today.

Initially, fashion jewelry was created as a more affordable substitute for fine jewelry and imitated its look and style. Through the 18th and 19th centuries, techniques for creating glass jewelry were refined to make glass gems look more like the real thing. In 1724, jeweler Georges Strass introduced a leaded glass cut with metal powder to create sparkle. Jewelers used foil backings to make glass shimmer and shine. In 1892, Daniel Swarovski debuted his infamous Swarovski crystal, made using a glass-cutting machine that could facet glass better and faster than any human hand.

In the early 20th century, costume jewelry began to take on a life of its own rather than existing as a lower-cost substitute for fine jewelry. Cheaper materials and better manufacturing techniques meant fashion jewelry could follow cultural trends, and the average woman could amass a collection of accessories for every occasion.

Coco Chanel lent credibility to this growing movement, creating fashion pieces to pair with haute-couture dresses. In the 1920s, she popularized the now iconic look of long strands of fake pearls, draped multiple times around the neck and hanging down to the waist or even the knee. The 1930s saw the first acrylic plastic baubles, and Bakelite and Lucite pieces grew in popularity throughout the 30s and 40s. As costume jewelry gained legitimacy in its own right, designers experimented with creating bold and whimsical statement pieces. Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli, nicknamed the “Queen of Whimsy,” gained prominence for her colorful, surrealist designs favoring insect and animal motifs.

During World War 2, jewelry-making metals were reserved for weapons manufacturing, propelling the use of unconventional materials like plastic, wood, shells, and clay. World War 2 also created a patriotic trend in the United States, and women donned brooches and pendants crafted in the shape of flags, the victory “V,” and Uncle Sam’s hat. The counterculture and mod movements of the 1960s saw more creativity and experimentation in fashion. Peace signs and enamel daisies dangled from necks, and natural materials like leather and flower crowns gave counterculture accessorization an earth-mother vibe. In the 1980s, punk transformed the fashion world, and with it, the world of costume jewelry. The humble safety pin became the signature earring of the times. Studs and spikes were omnipresent, decorating dog-collar chokers, belts, and denim jackets—madonna-inspired trends of bangle-packed arms and crucifix necklaces.

Techniques and materials continue to improve. Today’s lab-grown diamonds are identical to mined gems and address modern concerns of ethical sourcing and sustainability. Fashion jewelry of the 2020s runs the gamut from bold, colorful statement pieces to designs indistinguishable from fine jewelry and has revolutionized jewelry as a mode of self-expression. At every price point under the sun, jewelry is now vastly more accessible than it was a few hundred years ago, and the range of styles, materials, and colors make it possible to accessorize every outfit for any occasion.