The beginning of Queen Victoria’s reign was marked by romance and sentimentality. The young queen’s blossoming relationship with her husband, Prince Albert, had a softening effect on British culture and the trends in jewelry and fashion. In 1861, however, tragedy struck for Victoria when Albert died prematurely. Etiquette of the time dictated two years of mourning, wherein a widow would withdraw from society and wear all black to symbolize her loss. But Victoria had been deeply in love with her husband and wore mourning clothes and jewelry for the better part of the next forty years. Under her influence, black jewelry also known as mourning jewelry, made from jet, onyx, black enamel, and bog oak became a wardrobe staple during the mid-Victorian era, also known as the Grand Period (1861-1885).

Queen Victoria in her mourning attire in 1866, 3 years after Albert’s passing.

Many cultural and technological forces in the mid-19th century influenced the jewelry of the era. An 1860 discovery of silver in Nevada, United States, provided a consistent supply of the precious metal, bringing down its price. In 1867, a diamond mine discovered in South Africa accomplished the same for diamonds. The industry was booming. Women worked as clerks, teachers, and housekeepers and won the right to keep their earnings. As prosperity grew, jewelers began to create more opulent styles. Where Romantic Period jewelry had been delicate and light, Grand Period jewelry was often massive and heavy. Large pendants hung from ladies’ necks, and bulky bangles encircled wrists.

1880s Birmingham England Rose and Green Gold Inlay Sterling Silver Flower Large Bracelet

Romantic Period jewelry often featured intricate cannetille and repoussé metalwork, but in the Grand Period, the focus shifted from settings to gemstones. More jewelry featured pavé and gypsy settings. In pavé, the metal is nearly invisible, with stones “paving” the piece. Gypsy or flush settings mount the stone in an indentation, so the gem lies flush with the metal. Jewelers flaunted their skills by embedding gems directly into cabochons. The star was a particularly popular motif, along with acorns, crosses, daisies, hearts, and realistic jeweled insects of all types. In Victorian Jewellery, Margaret Flower writes of this unusual trend:

“Bonnets and veils were covered with every kind of beetle…parasols were liberally sprinkled with ticks, with grasshoppers, with woodlice. Veils were sown with earwigs, with cock-chafers, with hornets…” (iii)

1860s Garnet Carbuncle Cabochon, Seed Pearl, and 14K Rose Gold Ring

The early Victorian interest in ancient cultures endured with continued archeological digs, and Greek, Roman, and Egyptian designs remained fashionable. Jeweler Augusto Castellani gained international fame for his expert craftsmanship in creating Greek and Etruscan jewelry and contributed to the continuing popularity of Renaissance jewels. On the other hand, seed pearls fell out of style, replaced by long strands of larger pearls.

Castellani Antique gold earrings. Image from: CHRISTIE’S

Another unique trend was jewelry created out of human hair. Victoria was a fan of the style, and a life-size portrait of her made entirely from human hair was displayed at the 1855 World’s Fair in Paris. Hair continued to have a place in memorial jewelry but was primarily stored invisibly in a piece rather than composing it.

Diamond bruting machine

Technology both in and outside of jewelry-making continued to improve. The steam-powered diamond-bruting machine was invented in 1874, making cutting diamonds easier and more precise. The incandescent light bulb made its appearance in 1879. Historians believe its invention led to a decrease in the popularity of brightly colored jewelry, which appeared gaudy under bright lights, and an increase in the popularity of diamonds.

Antique 1870s Mid Victorian Onyx, Seed Pearl, and 14K Yellow Gold Mourning Starburst Ring

The Grand Period was a time of mourning for many, mostly due to the Civil War, but it was also a prosperous time and quickly advancing technology and culture. It drew to a close in 1885. In the following article, we’ll discuss the jewelry of the sunset of Victoria’s reign, the Aesthetic Period.