Art Deco Jewelry: Part 2 The 1930s
by Dani Chavez
The 1930s, often called “The Dirty Thirties,” began with one of the most catastrophic historical events: the Great Depression. The era of excess and indulgence suddenly stopped on October 29, 1929, due to an economic crash that plunged the entire world into uncertainty. This period saw the rise of dictators like Hitler, Mussolini, and Franco, who brought fascism into the global stage. Moreover, the thirties experienced a series of natural disasters, including massive floods in China and the notorious “Dust Bowl” in the Great Plains of the United States. As the decade came to an end, the world was drawn into World War II, resulting in widespread destruction and devastation in its wake.
Men in a Soup Kitchen Line. Image: Shutterstock
During the earlier times, most women couldn’t afford to keep up with the latest fashion trends and update their wardrobes frequently. Therefore, they relied on jewelry to enhance their outfits. The rise of affordable costume jewelry was due to advancements in machines, methods, and technologies. The dress clip was one such piece of jewelry that became very popular. It was known as the “Queen of jewels” since it could be clipped onto various accessories such as shoes, belts, hats, necklines, lapels, or other parts of the outfit. The key proponents of costume jewelry included Paul Flato, Coco Chanel, and Elsa Schiaparelli.
Women in Costume Jewelry, c. 1930s. Image: Shutterstock
During turbulent times, people turned to Hollywood and films to escape reality. Escapism was essential, and individuals flocked to the silver screen to catch the latest fashion and jewelry trends. As the cinematography of the movies was mainly black-and-white, the jewelry had to be large, adorned with white and black rhinestones, and easily visible on-screen. This style gained popularity, and the striking contrast between black and white became a common trend throughout the 1930s.
Black and White Camphor Necklace. Image: The Gemmary
Early 20th-century jewelers embraced innovative techniques and methods while exploring fresh and creative designs. The German design school Bauhaus promoted streamlined designs that softened jagged, linear patterns. A prominent trend of this era was the use of rounded, machine-derived geometric motifs inspired by various sources, including tractors, trains, airplanes, and automobiles.
Lupe Velez, Mgm, 1933, Photo by Everett.
In the 1930s, jewelry became more prominent and daring. It featured hyper-stylized designs that imitated machine parts to mark technological advancements. The Bauhaus school had a significant influence on the design of that era, incorporating industrial and technological themes. Although the school closed in 1933, its impact on the style of the 1930s remains undeniable.
Actress Hedy Lamarr. Image: CNET
In the early 20th century, white jewels reemerged after a long absence. This new style showcased monochromatic jewelry made of sparkling, colorless rock crystals, diamonds, sapphires, and spinels, all set in platinum and white gold. Unlike the Edwardian era, this style had a more sculptural quality. It gained popularity in cinema and was reflected in the era’s costume jewelry. The stones were cut to enhance their “flash” and brilliance, contributing to the dramatic effect of the “white on white” look.
Bold Dangle "White on White" Earrings. Image: Shutterstock
The Art Deco era of the 1930s revolutionized jewelry design with its bold geometric shapes, vibrant colors, and luxurious materials. It notably favored the “white on white” look with platinum and white gold. Influenced by black-and-white cinema, costume jewelry became a symbol of glamour and escapism, while the principles of the Bauhaus school inspired functional yet visually striking pieces. Art Deco jewelry remains a timeless testament to the era’s elegance and innovation, reflecting both the spirit of the times and the enduring creativity of human expression.