Bohemian Garnets: Exotic Allure From the Hills of Czechoslovakia

by Dani Chavez

“The garnet is a red gem, but not like the ruby; its red is much more like that of a flame …  It forms far in the east … If correctly cut and polished, it will reveal all its beauty and perfection.” – Aristotle, ca. 322 B.C.

Vintage & Antique Bohemian Garnet Jewelry. Image: The Gemmary

Collectors of vintage and antique jewelry highly prize Bohemian garnets, yet many people remain unaware of these exquisite pieces of jewelry history. Belonging to the pyrope species of garnet, Bohemian garnets are prized for their vibrant red hue and inner glow, which result from their exceptional refractive properties.

Bohemian Garnet Rough. Image VisitCzechia

The appreciation for these garnets dates back to the Bronze Age when people were the first to recognize and value their remarkable color. Numerous ancient Greek philosophers and authors, such as Pliny the Elder, Aristotle, and Theophrastus of Eresos, mentioned garnets in their works. In fact, the name “pyrope” is derived from the Greek words “pyr,” meaning “fire,” and “ops,” meaning “eye,” accurately describing the fiery red color and captivating luminosity displayed by these gemstones.

Miners in the Central Bohemia Uplands. Image: Czech Garnet Museum

Significant deposits of garnets were discovered in the 16th century in Meronitz, situated in the hills of Bohemia in the Czech Republic. These garnets were found in gravel derived from the decomposition of serpentine rock. Their unique color is derived from traces of chromium and manganese. While garnets have been mined only for the past 600 years, they have been collected and crafted into jewelry for several millennia.

King Childric I. Image: World History Encyclopedia

Bohemian garnet jewelry is renowned for its rose-cut gemstones, which are pavé set and resemble pomegranate seeds. Pyropes possess exceptional clarity and purity and were incredibly appealing to Frankish King Childeric I (436-482 AD). His admiration for these garnets was so profound that during the excavation of his tomb in Tournai in 1653, an impressive amount of garnet jewelry, including buckles, large brooches, and inlaid bug pins, was discovered.

Edwardian Bohemian Garnet Bangle. Image: The Gemmary

Throughout history, each era has esteemed and further refined the art of garnet setting. During the Renaissance, Venetian stone cutters traveled to Prague and taught local artisans improved techniques for cutting and setting gems, enabling garnets to embellish jewelry and objets d’art. King Rudolph II, a member of the illustrious Habsburg family, was another prominent garnet enthusiast who adorned his crown with these gems. The crown remains in use today as the Imperial Crown of Austria.

Crown of Rudolph II. Image: The World of the Habsburgs.

Bohemian garnets surged in popularity during the 19th century when they adorned Russian dresses at the Vienna Congress following Napoleon's fall in 1815. They remained highly favored throughout the Victorian era until the onset of the Great Depression.

Antique Bohemian Garnet Jewelry. Image: The Gemmary

In 1953, the Czech government founded Granat Turnov as a cooperative to preserve and promote the traditional craftsmanship of Bohemian garnet jewelry. The cooperative oversees the mining, cutting, and setting of authentic Czech garnets. Today, Granat Turnov continues to be a beacon of garnet jewelry excellence, blending tradition with contemporary design to captivate jewelry enthusiasts worldwide.

Vintage and Antique Bohemian Garnet and Bohemain-Styled Pieces. Image: The Gemmary

Even Michelle Obama acquired a piece for her collection while traveling as First Lady. This captivating jewelry is currently experiencing a resurgence in popularity and is a must-have when visiting the Czech Republic.