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Pink costume jewelry spilling out of a purse on a pink background

The History of Costume Jewelry

by Kat Paulick

Costume jewelry, or fashion jewelry, is made from non-precious materials. Before costume jewelry became popular, fine jewelry was only affordable for the wealthiest and served as both an investment and a personal accessory. After the idea of fashion jewelry emerged in the Western world during the 1700s, growing demand and technological progress turned it into the thriving industry it is today.

A pile of colorful rhinestone cyrstals

Initially, fashion jewelry was created as a more affordable alternative to fine jewelry, imitating its look and style. Through the 18th and 19th centuries, techniques for creating glass jewelry were refined to make glass gems look more like the real thing. In 1724, jeweler Georges Strass introduced a leaded glass cut with metal powder to create sparkle. Jewelers used foil backings to enhance the shimmer and shine of glass. In 1892, Daniel Swarovski introduced his renowned Swarovski crystal, which was crafted using a glass-cutting machine that could facet glass more efficiently and accurately than any human hand.

In the early 20th century, costume jewelry began to take on a life of its own, rather than merely serving as a lower-cost substitute for fine jewelry. Cheaper materials and improved manufacturing techniques enabled fashion jewelry to closely follow cultural trends, allowing the average woman to accumulate a collection of accessories for every occasion.

 

Coco Chanel. Image: Shutterstock

Coco Chanel lent credibility to this growing movement, creating fashion pieces to pair with haute couture dresses. In the 1920s, she popularized the now iconic look of long strands of fake pearls draped multiple times around the neck and hanging down to the waist or knee.

Stack of yellow and orange bakelite bangle bracelets

Stack of Bakelite Bangles. Image: The Gemmary

The 1930s saw the introduction of acrylic plastic baubles, and Bakelite and Lucite pieces gained popularity throughout the 1930s and 1940s. As costume jewelry gained legitimacy in its own right in the 1930s, designers experimented with creating bold and whimsical statement pieces. Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli, nicknamed the “Queen of Whimsy,” gained prominence for her colorful, surrealist designs which favored insect and animal motifs., which favored

Colorful rhinestone costume jewelry on tan background

1950s Colorful Rhinestone Costume Jewelry. Image: The Gemmary

During World War II, jewelry-making metals were reserved for weapons manufacturing, propelling the use of unconventional materials such as plastic, wood, shells, and clay. World War 2 also created a patriotic trend in the United States, and women donned brooches and pendants crafted in the shape of flags, the victory “V,” and Uncle Sam’s hat.

The counterculture and mod movements of the 1960s saw more creativity and experimentation in fashion. Peace signs and enamel daisies dangled from necks, and natural materials like leather and flower crowns gave counterculture accessorization an earth-mother vibe.

1960s and 1980s Egyptian Revival Costume Jewelry. Image: The Gemmary

In the 1980s, punk revolutionized the fashion world, and with it, the world of costume jewelry. The humble safety pin became the signature earring of the times. Studs and spikes were omnipresent, decorating dog-collar chokers, belts, and denim jackets—Madonna-inspired trends of bangle-packed arms and crucifix necklaces.

orange necklaces on a purple velvet background

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